Origins of a Collaboration
When ZHELL approached independent designer WIKA123 for a collaboration, the initial spark wasn’t rooted in commercial intent—it began as a conversation. The streetwear label, known for its minimalist approach and architectural silhouettes, found resonance in WIKA123’s raw visual language: graffiti influences, abstract motifs, and references to cultural memory.
The ZHELL X WIKA123 project evolved from shared values. Both creators questioned mainstream fashion narratives, often working with nontraditional techniques and mediums. Their goal wasn’t to chase trends but to explore a deeper language of clothing—one that speaks to heritage, resistance, and individuality.
The Conceptual Framework
Rather than producing a standard capsule collection, the team started with themes: urban dislocation, ancestral voices, and ritualistic rebellion. These abstract ideas served as the skeleton for each design. WIKA123 brought in hand-drawn sketches, some inspired by protest banners and personal journals, while ZHELL counterbalanced with structure—pattern-making rooted in precision and clean cuts.
Mood boards were collages of Jakarta street life, punk zines, traditional batik fragments, and architectural lines. The fusion wasn’t meant to blend seamlessly but to confront—stitched tension became a design philosophy.
Crafting the Collection
Prototypes were handmade in a shared studio space, emphasizing local craftsmanship. The fabric sourcing process was crucial: deadstock denim, repurposed tarpaulin textures, screen-printed cotton, and recycled nylon became essential materials. Every piece underwent multiple iterations—each detail reconsidered for functionality and message.
WIKA123’s bold graphic elements were screen-printed using eco-friendly inks, often layered over fabric that had already been distressed or dyed. Meanwhile, ZHELL focused on silhouette integrity—ensuring that oversized proportions remained wearable and utilitarian.
One standout design features modular pockets and asymmetrical fastenings, referencing both military garments and street vendor uniforms. Symbolism ran throughout the line—numbers, encoded messages, and personal iconography embedded subtly into the garments.
Beyond Fashion: A Cultural Artifact
More than a fashion collection, ZHELL X WIKA123 stands as a cultural timestamp. It encapsulates two creative forces negotiating identity, memory, and resistance through textile and form. The pieces aren’t just worn—they’re read.
Rather than mass-produced clothing, this collaboration embraces slowness and story. It invites wearers to participate, to question, and to reflect. Each thread carries intention; each stitch, a small act of authorship.
